NYT Cooking: Shrimp, the most versatile seafood, is now the most popular in America, and there is no wrong way to eat it. Wild shrimp from the Pacific or the Gulf of Mexico is a treat if you can find it. Fresh local shrimp from Maine or the Carolinas is an even rarer gem. (These are all preferable from a sustainability perspective.) A vast majority, of course, is farmed and frozen. If you buy it ‘‘individually quick frozen’’ in resealable bags, you can take out only as many as you want and t...