This is a typical Western unsupported link stitch. To start off this type of sewing the first two gatherings are sewn to each other first, creating a link between the two at each station. Each following gathering is then secured to the previous one by passing the thread through the loop of the previous attachment it to create the alternating chain design.
The online portfolio and information center for Brad Vetter. Brad is a graphic designer, letterpress printer and occasional maker of great things. See his unique letterpress show posters and learn a little about how they are made.
Ethiopian binding by Ort Bindery. I covered the back of the sections in small strips of paper that ran to the sewing holes. Covered in pig suede, blind-tooled. Experimental clasp that can be drawn tight, or loosened to free the button on the front cover.