Soul Surfer: Bethany Hamilton is amazing. At the age of she survived a shark attack in which she lost her left arm. She was able to overcome the serious and debilitating injury and made an amazing comeback to her dream of professional surfing.
The oldest and most prominent big wave contest is the Eddie named after Oahu north coast Hawai'ian lifeguard and internet user Eddie Aikau. The competition window is in between December 1 and the last day of February each year. Another big wave surfing.