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Reinhold Messner - for his first Himalayan expedition he was going to go straight up the highest sheer rock face in the world – the 15,000-foot, ice-covered face of Nanga Parbat. In 1970 he became the first person to ever summit this Gateway to Hell using this borderline-suicidal route, then he camped on the summit, descended the other side, and subsequently became the only person to ever cross the mountain from one side to the other.
Herman Buhl, Diembergers climbing partner on the ascent of Broad Peak lost his life on nearby Bride Peak (Chogolisa) when he and Diemberger were caught in a storm, got lost and a cornice broke and Buhl plunged to his death.
Heinrich Harrer 6 July 1912 – 7 January 2006) was an Austrian mountaineer, sportsman, geographer, and author. He is best known for being on the four-man climbing team that made the first ascent of the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, and for his books Seven Years in Tibet (1952) and The White Spider (1959).
www.everest1953.co.uk/1924v2007.php Since the 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition, travel, equipment, clothing and costs have changed. In 1924 George Mallory used the latest type of equipment and clothing that was available to him at the time. I have tried my best to do an accurate list of the differences between some of the clothing and equipment used on the 1924 expedition and what is used today on a 2007 expedition.