I see the flick of a tail, ringed in black and white. Then I see the lemur, climbing over the tree branches to pick some orange berries. He briefly turns towards us, staring with wide, hypnotic eyes, before leaping away. Then I see another ring-tailed lemur. And another. In Madagascar’s Anja Reserve, ring-tailed lemurs are everywhere. Which is incredible because, less than 20 years ago, they were in danger of disappearing forever.