Authentic kebabs are delicious, full of nuts, spices, herbs and fruit, as anyone who's tasted proper Middle Eastern cooking knows. In this recipe I'm using a spice called sumac – it has a lovely flavour – but if you can't find it, try lemon zest instead. Buy really good minced lamb, or else a cut of trimmed shoulder or neck fillet and mince it up at home in a food processor. If you buy slightly older lamb (hogget or mutton), it's important to ask your butcher to remove the sinews, and that ...